Date

After drying I reassembled and riveted to the rear spars.  I was able to squeeze all the rivets except the innermost one on the outboard brackets.  It was easy to rivet with the gun.

Next I began working on the flap brackets.  It took a while to figure out the drawings in the plans as to how the flap brackets attach to the rear spars.  I made the 925-A and 925-C brackets and deburred.

I was able to match drill and cleco three of the six flap brackets.  I will complete all six and check the alignment before riveting.

 

I then disassembled and deburred all the parts.  I alodined the parts and then primed with self-etching primer.

I riveted the flap brackets and support angles.  I was able to reach about half of the rivets with the pneumatic squeezer and the rest had to be driven with the rivet gun.  You can easily tell which rivets were driven by the gun because they are somewhat distorted and "silver" in color.

Next, I began installing the aileron and flap gap fairings.  It is interesting to note that when the plans say "Drill, deburr and dimple where required" that this means at least 4-5 hours of work!  I installed the fairings, clecoed and match-drilled.  After deburring I dimpled the #40 holes where it attaches to the top skin and set the fairings aside for priming.

I (FINALLY) started work on the ailerons by edge deburring the spars and the A-908 reinforcing plates.  After match-drilling, I deburred, clecoed  and match-drilled the A-904 nose ribs to the spar.

 

Next, I cut the A-910 stiffeners and deburred.  I then started deburring the aileron top and bottom skins.

 

Well, today we got snowed in and couldn't get out to go to work...so I worked on the ailerons.  I finished deburring the skin edges and clecoed both ailerons together and match-drilled.  I noticed that on the top skins that they are about 1/16" short.  It seems that some kits have this issue and it is acceptable so I am moving on.

I disassembled the left aileron and match-drilled the stiffeners to the top and bottom skins.  I deburred the stiffeners, skins and countersunk the spar.  I dimpled the left aileron top and bottom skins and set aside for priming.
 

I drilled the lateral rivet holes in the counterbalance pipes.  These pipes are stainless steel so I drilled the #30 holes using the drill press at low speed using some oil.

 

Deburred the right aileron top and bottom skins and then dimpled and set aside for priming.  Dimpled the inboard and outboard ribs of the right aileron.

Deburred the spar holes for the flap and aileron gap fairings on both left and right wings.
 

Ready for aileron final assembly.
 

Assembled left aileron and drilled trailing edge.  Deburred trailing edge and dimpled.  Countersunk AEX wedge.  Riveted spar, ribs and counterbalance.  Riveted majority of top and bottom skins.  I heard from ABF that my fuselage should be delivered on Thursday!  WooHoo!

 

I finished riveting the skins to the spar as well as the ribs.  I then weighed the aileron to the table and again used T-88 adhesive to lightly glue the AEX wedge and clecoed every hole.  I used clothes pins between every cleco as well as a few clamps to ensure a tight trailing edge.  Now to let it set up before riveting.

I scuffed the attach brackets and drilled to 3/8".  I bolted the brackets to the right aileron.

 

I realized that somehow I had failed to rivet the last hole of the leading edge to the spar.  I decided to install a MK-319-BS pop rivet.  It should be more than adequate and primer/paint will cover.  Good enough.

Bolted the attach brackets and torqued to 25 in./lbs.  AILERONS FINISHED!

 

Total Hours Ailerons

Total Hours Wings