Date

Next, I cut the roller track and deburred.  After measuring out the attachment holes, I drilled the tracks and clamped them to the aft canopy decks.

 

I spent the next few hours assembling and fitting the rear slider track assembly by positioning, drilling and riveting the C-763 slide spacer and the C762 slider track.

With the slider track taped in place on the aft top skin I was able to install the slider frame and check for initial fit.

 

I determined that all the measurements were within specs except for the height of the front bow.  The front bow is supposed to be 3/8" higher than the roll bar.  Now, it is about 3/4". 

Also, while the roll bar is perpendicular to the fuselage, the slider frame has a "gap" at the top.

This "extra height" at the front slider bow is also reflected in the side tubes.  They are supposed to be parallel with the aft canopy deck but here you can see that the front measures 3 3/4" and the aft measures 3 3/8".

Amazingly, it seems I will not have to do any manual bending of the 4130 steel tubing.  I need to check with some other builders and see if I could just trim the front slider bow where the rollers attach and let the bow drop 3/8".  I also believe this will resolve the problem with the vertical fit and the side tubes.
 

I hope to rivet the aft fuselage top skins next weekend so I clecoed them to the fuse.

 

I spent a little time cleaning up and re-organizing the shop.
 

We spent the next 5 hours riveting the top skins. 

 

After masking off the rest of the interior I went ahead and shot it with the Rustoleum hammered gray.  I am only hitting the areas that will not be covered by the interior carpeting or upholstery.  I went ahead and painted the roll bar.

 

I set the canopy on saw horses outside in the sun to really warm it up.  After each cut I sanded the edge using my belt sander with 120 grit then using various grits of sanding pads (220, 320, 400) until the edge was smooth with no cut marks.

 

I trimmed the protective plastic back from the future glue and cut lines and taped the edges down. 

(NOTE:  Normally the Plans would have you trim the sides even further at this point but if do, the sides of the windscreen are too short.  The best suggestion by other builders is to go ahead here and make the BIG CUT.  The sides for the slider frame can then be cut as needed.)

 

I then used yellow electrical tape over the cut line to make it more visible from the outside of the canopy.

 

And here is the rear...

And I had to lay up the windscreen just for effect.

I still needed to trim the rear of the slider frame canopy so I clamped in the frame and taped off the cut line 1.0" behind the aft bow.  I also trimmed the sides to be 3/8" above the square side tubes.

After cutting, the plexiglass is really "floppy" so I used duct tape to hold it together.

Whew!  Cutting the canopy is a stressful and tiring event and I'm glad it is behind me.  Someone asked me how long it took... Three beers.

 

I cut some pieces of angle 3.0" to use as brackets to hold in the canopy sides.

I then placed the frame inside the canopy and masked off for the primer.

Here you can see the angle brackets at work.  The sides of the canopy have been cut 3/8" above the side rail.

Gluing the Slider Frame Canopy

I decided long ago I was going to glue my canopy using Sikaflex 295 UV.  The proper procedure requires using the Cleaner and Primer as well.

I scuffed the top section of the slider frame with 150 grit sandpaper to allow good adhesion.

I then scuffed the inside of the canopy with the sandpaper.  This really hurts to intentionally scuff up perfectly good plexi.

I got Lynne over for the next part.  After taping off the slider frame and cleaning it and the canopy with the 226 Cleaner we primed them both with the 209-N Primer. 

(IMPORTANT!  We were using plastic cups to hold the primer as we brushed it on and within a couple minutes the Primer ate through the cups!  Fair warning.)

After about 10 minutes we placed the hose spacers back on the slider frame and placed the frame on the canopy and clamped.  It is also a good idea to pull the canopy sides in before gluing to offset the canopy side pull.  I used straps to pull the canopy in about 3/8".  While I applied the Sikaflex adhesive, Lynne used popsicle sticks to smooth out the filets between the spacers.

And a few more pics.

 

I also used a razor blade to trim the Sika in preparation for the finish (cosmetic) coat which I will do once the side skirts are ready to glue.  I glued the entire frame with exactly one tube of the Sikaflex and I don't want to open another tube until I have a lot to do since this stuff cannot be used again after it has been opened.

 

Before drilling them to the slider rails I used some towels to cover the canopy to keep drilled shavings out of the Sika filets and to keep from scratching the canopy.  I burned through two new #30 drill bits drilling into the steel frame.

 

After fitting the frame to the fuselage (prior to gluing the canopy) the inside dimension between the two rollers was 40 5/8".  I had used straps to hold the slider frame in about .75" when I glued the canopy to the frame to compensate for the canopy "pulling out" the frame sides.  When I released the straps the frame only expanded to a width of 40 3/4".  This allows the canopy to roll in the center of the tracks with no binding at all.  (I am REALLY pleased with how well this turned out).

I carefully laid out the dimensions on both C-660 canopy skirts by taping both skirts together (they are symmetrical pieces) and drilled all but the top row of holes that are designed to drill through and bolt the canopy.  I will be using the Sikaflex for this attachment.

I also trimmed the C-759 inside canopy skirt and then, measuring carefully and taping into position, I drilled the C-660 canopy skirt and C-759 inside canopy skirt to the slider frame side tube.  I repeated for the right side as well.

 

I removed the canopy and disassembled the side skirts. 

I deburred the C-660 canopy skirts, C-759 inside canopy skirts and the C-791 canopy skirt braces.  The plans say the canopy skirts and inside skirts will be riveted to the slider rail with MK-319-BS pulled rivets but also says to drill the parts to #40.  I had to enlarge these holes to #34 in order for the rivet to fit the holes.

 

After thoroughly cleaning the former glue areas as well as the side canopy I applied the primer on all parts which would be in contact with the sika.

Next, while I applied the Sikaflex, Lynne used popsicle sticks to smooth and spread the sika on the side skirts.  Then we clecoed them to the slider frame.

Next, I quickly applied more Sikaflex to the original fillets while Lynne came behind me and smoothed the fillets.  I am very pleased with the end results.  One point that I can share for others wishing to glue their canopies is to make smooth fillets ONE TIME.  Resist the urge to come back and "touch up" an area.  It will only end up worse than it was to begin with.

Here is the final result.

 

I also spent time and fabricated some side handles for helping open the slider canopy.  I flagrantly stole the design from Mike Schipper and made them out of some .125x.75x.75 angle.  After shaping the handles I alodined and riveted to the slider frame.

 

I went ahead and drilled and screwed the slider rails.

 

I taped off the roll bar and top skin with electrical tape to mark where the primer line would be.  Next, I cleaned the areas to be glued well with the Sika cleaner and then applied the primer with a small brush.

After letting the primer set for about 20 minutes, I clamped the windscreen to the roll bar and inserted the appropriately sized spacers (1/16" and 1/8") along the roll bar in order to align the windscreen with the slider.  Then, I applied the first filet of Sikaflex adhesive between the spacers along the rear of the roll bar as well as along the front of the windscreen where it meets the top skin.

I did not glue the sides where it bows out yet.  I will need to let the Sika cure first and then I will have to use leverage to force the sides in before gluing.

 

I drilled the rollers at the front of the slider and installed hitch pins.  The hitch pins are a safety modification instead of the bolts that can be pulled in the event of an emergency and allow the canopy to be easily opened.

 

Finally, I cut and applied strips of dacron "peel-ply" to smooth out the epoxy layups.

 

I pre-cut out enough strips of fiberglass to allow six complete layups, 2- 12oz, 2- 6oz and 2- 1.7oz.

I applied each layup on each side, wetted the glass and laid up the next layer until I was finished.

 

After about five hours the micro had set up well enough to sand.

 

I also cleaned the sika on the roll bar and applied the final coat of sika.  I then smoothed it out.
 

Total hours

Total Hours Canopy